Summers in France

As it turns out, Port-Gentil empties out almost entirely of its non-working expat members (ie spouses and kids) during the months of July and August. Although these are the winter months in Gabon, and thus the coolest (or should I say the least hot) and most mosquito-free, pretty much every single mom takes her kids back to the "home country" to reconnect with family and remember what it's like to be in a place where the electricity never cuts out, fruits are plentiful and refreshingly varied, and the stores are filled with ANYthing your heart desires. For me this pretty much means two months of trips to the supermarket without being able to use my special Gabon weapon on the kids: "Awwwww. Sorry sweety. We just can't buy it since the store has run out. We'll have to wait until next month to see if they get more in." I just know that this summer there's no way I'm going to be able to get Cecilia to enthusiastically try peaches or strawberries at snack-time in France when they're in direct competition with that ever-possible Nutella jar. At age 4 now her radar can pick up on the Nutella aisle pretty much the minute we walk into any supermarket outside of Gabon. Jourdain is more of a Honey Nut Cheerios man, but I consider that much less of a threat.

After having to break the news of our extended departure to Martine, our family's personal fuit vendor in Port-Gentil (see below), we headed off to France. I took this picture just moments after telling her the kids and I were flying out that same evening and would only be back in September. As you can see, she was not particularly happy to see her best clients go. (She walks all over town each day to find me, catching me in front of our house, in the supermarket parking lot, or even here, in front of Jourdain's school. But that's another whole post in itself I'll save for another day.)


So in an effort to create some semblance of stability in our kids' lives during all this moving around we seem to be doing, Olivier and I recently purchased a house in the middle of the woods in France. On a mountain. Far from everything. But it really is a beautiful area and our aim is to spend summers there with as many friends and family members as possible each year once the restauration works have been completed in a year or two! Here's the nity-gritty:

Our house is just outside the village of La Chapelle-en-Vercors. This area is located up on the plateau of the Vercors, which can be seen when looking east from Valence and west from Grenoble, and is in the Drome department. The house is right on the edge of a large nature reserve, allowing Olivier to leave directly from our front door to head out on long hikes and camping trips climbing up into the Alps, all while the kids and I take it easy and enjoy the green around us! In the winter we can reach the ski slopes within 15 minutes. The views in the area are pretty spectacular, with jagged mountain tops, cliffs, waterfalls and beautiful gorges and caves surrounded everywhere by beautiful green forests reminding me of New England. A 45-minute drive south of us drops us off in the town of Die and on to the Provence.

-The Vercors is located here on a map of France: http://www.bedandbreakfast.dk/maps/4/178.jpg

-Map of the plateau: http://www.golf-vercors.com/img/acces2.gif


Our house has a section that was beautifully renovated by the British couple that sold it to us, and a much larger section (barn attached to the main house by a smaller building) to be entirely renovated. Unfortunately the renovation process is taking forever to get off the ground, with our initial architect taking weeks to respond to about 1 email out of 5. I've just now found a new architect and hope he'll prove to be more on the ball!

Based on the speed (or lack thereof) of works getting done right now, I am afraid that the section of the house planned to accommodate multiple friends and family members simultaneously will only be ready as of summer 2009!! GRRrrrrr!!

And now for some pictures of the interior of the house:

The Terracotta House

When our landlord in Gabon recently made the move to have our house painted I jumped right away at the chance to give it a bit of color! I don't know how many years the poor thing had been a shade somewhere between grey and cement, but I went out and got the landlord a sample of the terracotta shade I thought would look nice. Well, no questions asked the guy had the whole damned thing painted in terracotta - wooden fence and all. With its new roof of the same color the house kinda jumps out at you as you drive by, but what the hell....at least it's not boring!


Here's Amadou to show you around the front:

Shopping in town

While there are a number of things you cannot find in the supermarkets here (peanut butter is rare, soy milk impossible, Special K and Cheerios are brought in on special occasions), one thing you can buy with great ease are machetes. You will note in the picture here that they can be found in all different lengths at Supergros supermarket in aisle 1, right as you enter the store, between the sets of cutlery to the left and the pet food to the right.

Scenes from Port-Gentil

Just a few general shots to give you an idea of downtown.

Now you see it, now you don't!!

So take a look at this picture, and see if you can see anything different about our lovely yet pig headed daughter in the shot below. Think she should have listened to her parents who tell her daily not to CLIMB UP ON TOP OF FURNITURE? (You might need to double click on the picture below for the full effect)

All I can say is that there was a lot of blood involved.

Truckin'

Where I come from people use straps, rope or bungee cords to attach important items to the roof of a car or the back of a truck. In Gabon they use, well, people! This is one of many shots to come proving the versatility of human arms, hands, and even butts.

Childhood in Gabon

I often tell people here I sure wish I had had MY childhood in Gabon! Constant sun interspersed with fabulous tropical rain storms that you splash around naked in, never have to wear a sweater (not to mention snow suits), swimming pools, birthday parties, afternoon social time with moms and kids -- and then there's AMADOU, the "guard" at your house, who carries you to the store and back to go get bubble gum!!

Here's Cecilia and best friend Kanzy (half Dutch half Egyptian) on their way back from a trip to the store
A rain storm is always welcome in the heat here, and makes for loads of fun when you're 5!!

Private swimming lessons year-round when you're 3 .........
No need for shirts at the table, even when guests come to dinner. (This is Jourdain's best friend Johan.)

Ines to braid your hair and take you to birthday parties.....



and then braid your best friend's hair too.

You're never limited to playing with your train set indoors.....
or to playing indoors period!!



It sure is a nice place to be a kid!!

Sweet Home Africana

In an effort to catch up on these last 3 months (gasp!) that I haven't posted, I thought the best would be a whole series of pictures based on themes, showing a bit more clearly what things look like for expats in West Africa.

First up - exterior of our house: Here's the front (with Cilia down in right-hand corner)


And the front yard















Back yard........ (with big mango tree)















Mangoes up close from said tree















Our Gabonese mutt - named Mooie (means "little girl" in Malian language)













The pool

Back porch




















And my Dutch BFF Monica with Cecilia's BFF Kanzy on the street in front of our place

We made it on Google Earth!!

For most of you the idea of being on Google Earth is old hat, but those of us in Port Gentil (used to gazing at a hazy whirl of cloud when looking for our town) are now sending emails back and forth with glee about the fact that we can now ZOOM IN to our little world down here! Join me in my excitement and take a look:

So this is Gabon, with our town of Port-Gentil sticking out into the ocean on the tip where I've placed the yellow circle.

And here's that point up close, which is called Mandji Island. The east side of the island (looks like peninsula here in pic) is where Port-Gentil is located. As you can see, the Atlantic coast is on the western side of the island, and the town itself looks out onto a very large bay to the east that eventually leads to the mainland (which is too far to see with the eye when at the beach). The island itself is only a few kilometers wide and maybe 25 kilometers from north to south.

And our house is the brown roof, just below the yellow circle. For those who care, our roof was redone this summer and is now similar to an orangy Italian or French terra cotta tiled roof. I'm looking forward to getting a new-and-improved Google Earth one day that shows the new roof and the swimming pool in the back yard (which is OLD, so this picture dates back a while, for sure).

But more importantly is our private island (which still needs a name) that looks out onto that magnificent bay!! As you can imagine, the white edges in the pic are the sand and the dark curve is the vegetation. Our cabana wasn't yet built on it when the picture was taken, but I hope it too will one day make it onto Google Earth! (See blog post entitled Island Cabana for pictures of us on the island)

So that's pretty much all there is to show here since our little town is less interesting from above than from street level. I'll get some shots of downtown Port Gentil in here soon! Meanwhile, plan that trip to come play on our island with us!!

Exotic Myasis!!

So is it just me or does the name Exotic Myiasis sound quite, well...exotic? And lovely. Could be the name of an island, right? Or a delicious recipe from Greece. Or perhaps even the name of a new kind of bathing suit. Anything, and I mean ANYTHING but THE LARVA FROM A FLY THAT IMPLANTS ITSELF UNDER YOUR SKIN AND GROWS INTO A MAGGOT!!!!!!!!!!! Right?

Well, anyway, you get the point, and after one year in Gabon this crazy maggot thing has now started happening to us!! It started when I decided that having our maid wash, machine dry and iron my bathing suits was a bit over the top and that a simple rinse and re-wear would be just fine for me (I mean, I'm far from the J. Lo of Africa). To be honest, Ines looked at me funnily when I told her to stay away from my bathing suits, but I thought nothing of it at the time. Turns out you in fact DO need to have your bathing suits (and underwear and socks and sheets and pajamas) washed, machine dried and ironed in order to avoid any possible Exotic Myasis occurring to you from larvae lurking in the fibers. Well, I won't tell you where my larva ended up implanting itself exactly, but suffice it to say that I was wearing a bikini when it happened.

Then about a week after I managed to pop the MAGGOT out of myself (still alive, mind you), Jourdain started to show signs quite similar to the itchy bump I had acquired, but this time on his wrist and on the lower left side of his head. Two at the same time--the poor kid!! After loads of poking, squeezing and very loud screaming from numerous family members at once Olivier and I managed to pop two Exotic Myasis (or is Myases the plural?) right out of our little 4 year old. The worst is when you pop it out and the damned thing just keeps on wiggling. OK, OK, I'm sure that's enough description for many of you.

In an effort to better understand what it was that was invading our bodies over here I ran to that handy Google icon in my toolbar and typed in "Africa fly maggot skin" and came up with the very pleasant sounding "Exotic Myasis". With 133,000 sites mentioning all or some of these words I guess our little family problem isn't all that rare after all. I felt in good company if the people at Google knew what this was all about!

Below here I've copied an abridged version of one particularly descriptive site I found. I say abridged because I've pasted the drawing of the beast rather than the actual photographs they also show. The link to the entire site is at the bottom of this post for the more curious and strong-stomached among you. - ENJOY!

(PS I'll be sure to post more pictures of us at the beach next blog in an effort to help take your mind off this one)

EXOTIC MYIASIS
Introduction

Myiasis is the invasion of living tissue or organs by the immature stage (maggots) of flies. Every year several species of exotic diptera are imported into Australia in the subdermal layers of the skin of overseas travellers. Patients returning from overseas present to their doctor with painful furuncular lesions, often unaware that the cause is a maggot.

http://medent.usyd.edu.au/fact/myiasis.html